Fantastic service, I would highly recommend. From first contact my solar issue was resolved within 2 days. Wouldn't use anyone else.
Jackie Howell · Jul 2026 Google
Setup guide · GivEnergy WiFi dongle and router
GivEnergy WiFi dongle setup — connect, reconnect and reset
Connect a plug-in dongle or built-in WiFi for the first time, reconnect it after a router or password change, set your router up for it (2.4GHz, WPA2 and port 7654) and reset it safely. Covers plug-in dongles (serials WE, WF, WO, WZ) and built-in WiFi (WG, WH, WJ, WK), with router steps for BT, EE, Sky, Virgin Media, Plusnet and TalkTalk hubs and mesh systems.
from £195 on-site WiFi setup · extender £75 extra if needed
- Step-by-step setup at 10.10.100.254
- 2.4GHz, WPA2 and router settings
- Outbound TCP 7654, no port forwarding
Dongle connected but portal still offline?
If the dongle LED is solid and your WiFi details are saved but the portal still shows no data, the cause is further along: the dongle hardware, firmware, a cloud outage or port 7654 being blocked. The app or portal offline guide covers all of these.
App or portal offline guideBook on-site WiFi setupNot affiliated with GivEnergy Ltd. Independent support and setup.
My 90-year-old father-in-law had a solar system installed nearly three years ago that never worked properly and kept tripping out. Neither the original installer nor GivEnergy could resolve the issues, and we were even pushed towards replacing the system entirely when GivEnergy went bust. I contacted Ron at Solar Tech Support via WhatsApp, and within a few hours he had diagnosed multiple faults — including incorrect wiring that posed a potential fire risk. He carried out a home visit in Nottingham for £295 (including parts), fixed everything, completed firmware updates, and ensured the system was fully operational. Since then, it has worked perfectly. Ron was knowledgeable, responsive, and took the time to explain everything clearly. Highly recommended — excellent value and complete peace of mind.
Julian Federici · Jun 2026 Google
I have a GivEnergy system consisting of two batteries, two inverters and a controlling EMS (Energy Management System) which has not worked since Nov 2025. After six months I discovered Solar Tech Support, reached out to them and Ron phoned me back – how often do you get that service? Could not be more helpful – worked directly with me over the phone, outside what I would call normal working hours. Lucid explanations and we were able to discuss the issues and history using camera and email history. As this was a very rare setup, Ron was able to access an EMS expert in the field to confirm the solution. One sunny day in, I am now only paying for standing charge and a few pence for spikes in grid consumption while battery catches up with house demand.
Ian · May 2026 Trustpilot
The ONLY technical person, who has ever exceeded my own high standards !!!! Being a professional commissioning engineer of over 37yrs in the field of emergency power generation, I approached Ron for some advice on a GivEnergy battery issue as happy to state I don't know everything. Not only did he reply immediately, his advice got the system working and all on a Sunday. You really do not get support as good as this anywhere now for anything. Thank you Ron
Ridgeback Ray · Oct 2026 Trustpilot
I received a prompt response and excellent technical support for the remote diagnosis (Oxfordshire) and resolution of my GivEnergy EMS configuration. My GivEnergy issue involved a single inverter and battery that had a loss of calibration, a critical low voltage drop. It needed a recovery and re-calibration, and was supported via email into yesterday evening being resolved within 24 hours. Ron demonstrated a very high level of knowledge and experience in the intricacies of a GivEnergy EMS configuration, even surpassing the understanding of GivEnergy itself when it was still operational. I have already recommended their services to a neighbour as I’d be happy to use their services again based on the fair pricing and the quality of their support.
In MINI · Jul 2026 Google
Amazing support, went out of his way to help try and get us back up and running
Paul Smith · May 2026 Trustpilot
Know your hardware
Hardware types
Which GivEnergy WiFi hardware do you have?
The serial number prefix tells you which hardware you have and where to start. The interface, login and steps differ between them, so check this first.
Serial starts
What it is
Start at
WG, WH, WJ, WK
Built-in WiFi: Gen 2 (WG), Gen 3 (WH), All in One (WJ), Giv-Gateway (WK)
Dip switches, then setup steps
4G dongle
Has a SIM slot; reports over mobile data
This guide does not apply
Plug-in WiFi dongle
Serial: WE, WF, WO or WZ
Plugs into the USB port on the underside of the inverter. The most common type on UK residential installs, used on AC-coupled inverters and Gen 1 hybrids. WE is an older variant. The older dongle is often called the HF21 or HFA21 after its chipset, and it has no network-cable port.
Login admin / admin at 10.10.100.254
Must be screwed in on both sides
Built-in WiFi
Serial: WG, WH, WJ or WK
WiFi built into the inverter itself: Gen 2 (WG), Gen 3 (WH), All in One (WJ) and Giv-Gateway (WK). Same interface at 10.10.100.254, but the dip switches behind the bottom cover must be set to WiFi mode.
All four dip switches up = WiFi mode
Gen 3 (WH): read the reset notes before resetting
On a network cable? Still secure the WiFi
4G dongle
Has a SIM card slot
Looks almost identical to the WiFi dongle. Tell them apart at the base: the 4G dongle has a thin SIM slot where the WiFi dongle has a rubber cover with the reset button under it. It needs no WiFi setup, just an active SIM with data, so this guide does not apply.
Fitting a plug-in dongle: the USB plug has 4 pins. The two outer pins are power (longer) and the two inner pins are data (shorter). Screw the dongle into the bottom of the inverter on both sides: a loose dongle lights up but sends no data. If the inverter is not live yet, you can power the dongle from any USB supply to set it up.
Built-in WiFi: the dip switches must all be up
Products with built-in WiFi have a dip switch block behind the bottom cover of the inverter. All four switches up is WiFi mode, on every one of them: Gen 2, Gen 3, the All in One and the Giv-Gateway. Gen 1 hybrids and AC-coupled inverters use the plug-in dongle instead and have no dip switches.
The blue light
LED states
What the blue light means
On the plug-in dongle the flash rate is the diagnosis. A fast flash is normal for the first minute or two after power-up while it joins your network.
Slow flash
Not connected
The dongle is not on your WiFi. If it never changes, check the dongle is screwed in on both sides and powered, then run the setup steps.
Fast flash
Joining the network
It is trying to connect. If it never goes solid, the usual causes are the WiFi password, a weak signal (under 70% RSSI) or outbound port 7654 being blocked. See signal and still not connecting.
Solid blue
Connected and reporting
Connected to your WiFi and reporting to GivEnergy. This is the only state you want. Solid but the portal is still offline? See the app or portal offline guide. Solid, then back to flashing, usually means the signal is under 70% and an extender is needed.
Try this first
Before you change anything
Restart both ends before you change a single setting
If the system was working and has stopped, this takes five minutes and fixes a good proportion of cases. Changing settings on a dongle that only needed a restart is how a short job becomes a long one.
Restart the router
Switch it off, wait 30 seconds, switch it back on and let it fully restart before you judge anything.
Restart the inverter, in the right order
Do one full restart: battery button first, DC MCB last. On a hybrid with a separate battery, the battery goes off at its button, then the AC isolator and the DC isolator on the bottom of the inverter, and the battery's DC MCB comes off last. On the way back, the AC goes on first. An All-in-One has its own order. Follow the steps for your system: Hybrid (separate battery) or All-in-One.
The app's route: Menu → Connect Hardware
The GivEnergy app connects the dongle through Menu → Connect Hardware, but we find the dongle's own interface more reliable. The steps below use it, and they are the route we use and support.
Step-by-step setup
First-time setup
Set up serials WE, WF, WO, WG, WH, WJ and WK
On first power-up the dongle broadcasts its own WiFi hotspot, named with the dongle serial number: a W followed by letters and numbers. You join that hotspot, configure the dongle in a browser at 10.10.100.254, then restart it so it joins your home network. Serial starting WZ? The screens differ: see the WZ steps.
1
Connect to the dongle's WiFi hotspot
Open WiFi settings on your phone or laptop and pick the network whose name is the dongle serial number, for example WG2049G011. Tick "Connect automatically" if offered. If it asks for a password, try 12345678 first, then the inverter serial number in capital letters. If neither works, the installer has changed it and the dongle needs a reset.
Only one device at a time: the hotspot accepts one device at once, so disconnect anything else first. Stand close to the inverter, because the hotspot has a short range.
2
Log into the dongle at 10.10.100.254
While connected to the hotspot, open Google Chrome (recommended) and type 10.10.100.254 in the address bar. Log in with:
Username:admin
Password:admin
If admin/admin doesn't work: your installer may have changed it. Try the inverter serial number as the password. If that fails, a factory reset is needed.
3
Select Mode Selection → STA Mode → Apply
In the left-hand menu, click Mode Selection. Of the two options, AP Mode (access point) and STA Mode (station), select STA Mode and click Apply. This tells the dongle to join your home network.
4
Search for your home WiFi network
Click STA Interface Setting, then Search. Nearby networks appear with their signal strength (RSSI) as a percentage. Your home network should show at least 70%. If it is lower, read the signal section before carrying on.
Network not appearing? Click Refresh. If it still isn't there, restart your router and search again, check it is broadcasting on 2.4GHz, or type the network name (SSID) into the field yourself.
5
Select your network and enter the password
Select your home network and enter your WiFi password in the Pass Phrase field. Passwords are case sensitive, so check capitals and make sure there is no trailing space. Click Apply.
6
Secure the dongle's own access point
Click AP Interface Setting, set Security Mode to WPA2-PSK and give the dongle's hotspot a password. Our convention is the inverter serial number, so it can always be recovered on site. Write down what you set. Click Apply. This stops anyone nearby reaching the configuration page.
Optional: tick Hidden to stop the dongle broadcasting its own network name. You can also change its WiFi channel on this page if it interferes with your home network.
7
Restart the dongle
Click Device Management, then Restart. The screen shows "Rebooting" and appears to hang: that is normal, and it can take up to 10 minutes. The dongle joins your home network and your device drops off the setup connection. Reconnect to your home WiFi.
✓
How to confirm it worked: the dongle LED goes solid blue, and live data with recent timestamps appears in the GivEnergy app, or on givenergy.cloud if you have GivEnergy Premium, within 10 to 15 minutes. Installer setting up a new system? Also check the dongle is registered on the portal.
Serial WZ
Newer interface
If your dongle serial starts WZ, the screens look different
Same job, different interface. A WZ dongle has a newer configuration screen, so the menu names below do not match the older WE, WF and WO screens.
1. Connect and log in
Join the WiFi network matching the dongle serial, then browse to 10.10.100.254. Username admin, password admin.
2. Set the work mode
Select Work Mode, choose AP+STA mode, then Save. The older interface calls this Mode Selection and STA mode.
3. Find and join the network
Select STA Setting and click Scan. Pick the home network and click OK, checking the RSSI is 70% or better. Type the password, leave Obtain an IP address automatically set to Enable, and Save.
4. Secure it, then restart
Under AP Setting, set Encryption Mode to WPA2-PSK and give the dongle a password. Our convention is the inverter serial number so it can always be recovered on site. Then Restart, and allow up to 10 minutes.
All in One 2 or Gateway 2 with an AECC dongle? It is set up differently: follow our AECC dongle guide.
Wired connection
LAN
On a network cable? Still secure the WiFi
A network cable does not switch the inverter's internal WiFi off. Without a password, its access point stays open and broadcasts to anyone nearby.
Set WPA2-PSK and a password anyway
Follow steps 6 and 7 of the setup steps (AP Interface Setting, WPA2-PSK, a password, then restart) even if WiFi is not your main connection.
LAN or WiFi?
A cable is the better choice wherever one can be run: no signal, router-update or interference problems. WiFi is reliable once you are on 2.4GHz with WPA2 and a decent signal. The plug-in dongle has no cable port.
Router change
Router change
Portal went offline after changing your router or WiFi password
A new router, network name or password breaks the dongle's connection straight away, because it still holds the old details. The quickest fix is to give the new router the old name and password. The full reconfiguration is also straightforward.
Quickest fix: rename your new router
Set your new router's WiFi name and password to match the old router exactly. The dongle reconnects by itself within a few minutes, with no reconfiguration. You can change the name and password and update the dongle later, at a convenient time.
The fastest option, and it works well if you still remember your old WiFi details.
Full reconfiguration
After failing to join the saved network, the dongle falls back to hotspot mode. A full restart in the correct order speeds this up: follow the steps for your system, Hybrid or All-in-One. When the dongle's hotspot reappears in your WiFi list, follow the setup steps with your new network name and password. It takes about 10 minutes. New hub from a different provider? Check it gives the dongle a 2.4GHz network first: see each provider's hub.
If the hotspot doesn't reappear, repeat the full restart (Hybrid or All-in-One).
Router requirements
Router settings
What your router needs for a GivEnergy dongle
The dongle needs every one of these. If one is missing it usually fails without a clear error, so check the whole list before you blame the dongle. The security settings are GivEnergy's own requirements.
| Requirement | What it means | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| 2.4GHz network | A 2.4GHz network the dongle can join, ideally with its own name | The dongle cannot use 5GHz. Split the bands; do not switch 5GHz off. |
| WPA2-PSK security | WPA2-Personal, not WPA3. A mixed WPA2/WPA3 mode may not work: choose WPA2 only | WPA3 blocks the dongle from joining. |
| AES encryption | AES (sometimes shown as CCMP), not TKIP or mixed TKIP/AES | GivEnergy asks for AES. |
| PMF off (Ubiquiti) | Protected Management Frames switched off on the network the dongle uses | GivEnergy's advice for Ubiquiti routers and access points. |
| DHCP on | The router hands out addresses automatically and has spare ones. A reservation (fixed address) for the dongle helps | Without an address the dongle stays on its own hotspot address, 10.10.100.254. |
| Simple name and password | No spaces in the network name, and no symbols such as @, #, $, % or & if the dongle will not join | Symbols are a common cause of failed setup in our experience. |
| Signal at the inverter | 70% RSSI or better on the dongle's own site survey | Under 60% is too weak (GivEnergy). Weak signal causes drop-outs that look like a fault. |
| Outbound TCP port 7654 | Allowed out through the router or firewall. Nothing inbound | The dongle's link to the GivEnergy cloud. See ports. |
Using the GivEnergy app in local mode? The free Standard tier talks to the inverter over your home network, so your phone must be on the same WiFi as the dongle. GivEnergy notes that mesh systems and extenders can stop the app finding the inverter, and suggests a fixed IP address for the inverter (a DHCP reservation on your router). On your phone, allow the app location and local network access. A guest network usually keeps its devices apart from your main network, so a dongle on a guest network may not be reachable in local mode. More on local monitoring.
5GHz and dual band
2.4GHz only
2.4GHz only: split the bands, do not switch 5GHz off
GivEnergy's plug-in dongles and built-in WiFi connect on 2.4GHz only. On modern routers that broadcast one network name for both bands, this is the most common cause of failed setup and intermittent drop-outs.
The symptom
Connects briefly, then drops
You configure the dongle, it seems to connect and data appears, then it goes offline within minutes or hours. A power cycle fixes it only for a while. Most modern Sky, Virgin and BT hubs use a single network name for both bands and cause exactly this.
The fix
Give the bands separate names
In your router settings, give the 2.4GHz and 5GHz networks different names, for example MyWiFi (2.4GHz) and MyWiFi-5G (5GHz), and point the dongle at the 2.4GHz name. Do not switch 5GHz off: it slows down everything else in the house. It is done in the router admin page, and your internet provider can talk you through it. See the router steps and how on each provider's hub.
WiFi extender
Use a different name on the extender
If the dongle connects through an extender, give the extender a different network name from the main router, for example by adding _EXT. That stops the dongle bouncing between the two and gives it a dedicated 2.4GHz network.
Band steering: why one network name breaks the dongle
Band steering is a router feature that puts 2.4GHz and 5GHz under one network name and moves devices onto the faster band. For phones and laptops that helps. For a dongle that can only use 2.4GHz, it can mean refused or dropped connections, usually with no error message.
What happens
The dongle joins your network name on 2.4GHz. The router keeps trying to push devices onto 5GHz, which the dongle cannot use, and the connection fails or drops.
Why it is hard to spot
Setup can look successful: the password is right and the dongle saves it. Then it drops within minutes or hours and the portal shows offline. Many owners assume the dongle has failed when the router is the cause.
The fix
Turn band steering off and give the two bands different names, then point the dongle at the 2.4GHz one. If your hub cannot split the bands, give the dongle a separate 2.4GHz network: BT Compatible Wi-Fi, an access point or extender with its own name, or a guest network.
Not only band steering: once the bands are split, check the 2.4GHz network is set to WPA2-PSK with AES. Some routers default 2.4GHz to a mixed WPA/WPA2 mode with TKIP. GivEnergy asks for AES, so set AES only.
Router steps
Router settings
Set your router up for the dongle, step by step
These are the steps in the router's own admin page. Menu names vary between makes and hub firmware, so look for the closest match. If you would rather not change router settings yourself, your provider can do it, or we can set it up on site, from £195.
1
Log in to your router
On a device connected to your home WiFi, open a browser and enter the router's address. The usual ones are 192.168.1.254 (BT, EE, Plusnet), 192.168.0.1 (Sky, Virgin Media) and 192.168.1.1 on many other routers. The address and admin password are normally on the router's label. The admin password is not your WiFi password.
2
Find the wireless settings
Open the Wireless or Wi-Fi settings, often under Advanced settings. If you see one network with no band choice, look for a setting called Separate bands, Sync with 2.4GHz, Smart Wi-Fi, Smart Connect, Band steering, Band Management or Band Optimisation.
3
Give the 2.4GHz and 5GHz networks different names
Turn band steering off and name the bands separately, for example YourNetwork_2G and YourNetwork_5G. Keep 5GHz switched on. Note the 2.4GHz name and password for the dongle setup. If your hub cannot split the bands, set up a separate 2.4GHz network instead: see each provider's hub.
4
Set security to WPA2-PSK with AES
On the 2.4GHz network, choose WPA2-PSK (WPA2-Personal) and AES encryption. WPA3 will not work. If a mixed WPA2/WPA3 mode will not let the dongle join, choose WPA2 only. Avoid TKIP. On Ubiquiti equipment, switch PMF (Protected Management Frames) off.
5
Check the WiFi password
If the password has symbols such as @, #, $, % or & and the dongle will not join, try a temporary password of letters and numbers only. If that works, either keep a simple password or give the dongle its own 2.4GHz network with one. Changing the main password means reconnecting every device in the house.
6
Check DHCP and the signal at the inverter
Check DHCP is switched on and has spare addresses, so the router can give the dongle one. It is on by default on most routers, and a reservation (fixed address) for the dongle helps. Then check your 2.4GHz network reaches the inverter at 70% RSSI or better: see signal strength.
7
Save, then set up the dongle
Save the settings and give the router a minute to apply them. Then follow the dongle setup steps with the 2.4GHz name and password. The dongle should show online within 10 to 15 minutes. Still offline after 15 minutes? Check port 7654 and the app or portal offline guide.
Provider hubs
Provider hubs
Band separation on BT, EE, Sky, Virgin Media, Plusnet and TalkTalk hubs
Some hubs can split the bands, some offer a separate 2.4GHz network instead, and some cannot do either. Find yours below. The admin password is on the hub's label or settings card unless you have changed it.
BT Smart Hub 2 and Plusnet Hub Two
Cannot split the bandsBT's own help says the Smart Hub 2 cannot give its 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands separate names. Plusnet's Hub Two is built on the same hub and has the same limit.
Give the dongle its own 2.4GHz network instead: an access point or extender near the inverter with its own name, or a network cable if your inverter has a port.
BT Smart Hub 3
Use Compatible Wi-FiGo to 192.168.1.254, choose Advanced Settings and enter the admin password from the card on the back of the hub. Then Wireless, then Compatible Wi-Fi: switch it on, set a name and password, and save. It is a separate 2.4GHz network, and BT says devices on it can still be reached from the main network. Point the dongle at it.
BT Smart Hub (Hub 6), Home Hub 4 and Home Hub 5, and Plusnet Hub One
Band splitting availableAt 192.168.1.254, go to Advanced Settings, then Wireless. On the Smart Hub, set Separate bands to On. On the Home Hub 4 and 5, open 5GHz Wireless, set Sync with 2.4GHz to No and give the 5GHz network a new name.
Plusnet's Hub One is built on the BT Home Hub 5, so the Home Hub steps should apply. If the menu looks different, Plusnet can split the bands for you.
The original name stays on 2.4GHz: point the dongle at that one.
EE Smart Hub
Band splitting availableAt 192.168.1.254, go to Advanced, then Wireless Settings, and use the option to separate the bands. The 5GHz network then gets a name starting 5GHz-, and the original name is the 2.4GHz network.
EE's community moderators say the white EE Smart Router cannot split the bands. On newer EE hubs, such as the EE Smart Hub Plus, look for Compatible Wi-Fi, a separate 2.4GHz network you can switch on in the EE app or the hub settings. If you cannot find either, ask EE.
Sky Broadband Hub (SR203), Sky Q Hub and Sky Max Hub
Depends on the hubLog in at 192.168.0.1 with the details on the back of the hub. On the older black Sky Broadband Hub (SR203) and the Sky Q Hub, open the wireless settings, untick the option that keeps 5GHz in sync with 2.4GHz, and give 5GHz its own name.
Sky users report that the white Sky Max Hub cannot split the bands. Use a 2.4GHz access point or extender with its own name instead.
Virgin Media Hub 3, Hub 4 and Hub 5
Band splitting possibleLog in at 192.168.0.1 with the password on the base of the hub. Under Advanced settings, then Wireless, turn off the smart or band optimisation option, then give the 2.4GHz and 5GHz networks different names (adding _2 and _5 is common).
Virgin Media does not actively support splitting, and some users report the hub putting the names back later, so check this first if the dongle drops again. Virgin Media's support team can also do it for you.
TalkTalk Wi-Fi Hub
One name by defaultTalkTalk hubs use one name for both bands by default. Customers split them from the hub dashboard: See Wi-Fi settings, then Manage advanced settings, then the 5GHz settings, and add 5G to that network's name. The original name is then the 2.4GHz network.
Menu names change with hub firmware. If yours looks different, your provider can split the bands for you, or we can set it up on site, from £195. Whatever the hub, keep 5GHz switched on for everything else in the house.
Mesh networks
Mesh WiFi
GivEnergy and mesh WiFi systems
Mesh systems such as BT Whole Home, Google Nest WiFi, Eero, TP-Link Deco and Ubiquiti use one network name across every unit and steer devices towards 5GHz. The dongle has the same band-steering problem as on a single router, but the fix is different.
The mesh problem
Most mesh apps do not let you split the bands, because the system is built around one name. The dongle is refused or silently dropped, and it can hop between units. GivEnergy also notes that mesh systems and extenders can stop the app's local mode finding the inverter.
The reliable fix
If your mesh app can create a separate 2.4GHz network for smart devices, try that first. Otherwise, wire a simple access point (or an old router set to access-point mode) to a mesh unit or the router, give it its own 2.4GHz network name with WPA2, and connect the dongle to it. Your other devices stay on the mesh.
Eero 6E. Eero 6E units in particular have caused problems in the field: use a network cable to the router or a switch, or a 2.4GHz network kept separate from the main mesh. Standard (non-6E) Eero is generally fine. If the separate network is a guest network, see the local mode note under router requirements.
Signal strength
RSSI & range
Signal strength and extenders
The signal (RSSI) needs to be at least 70% for a reliable connection: that is our standard and GivEnergy's recommendation, and GivEnergy's router checklist treats under 60% as too weak. Below 70% the dongle drops in and out, which looks like a fault but isn't one. The dongle also needs WPA2 security: networks set to WPA3 only will not work.
Checking the signal
Connect to the dongle's hotspot and go to 10.10.100.254 → STA Interface Setting → Search. The site survey shows each nearby network with an RSSI percentage. Yours should show 70% or more.
Between 60 and 70% may work, with occasional drop-outs. Below 60%, expect intermittent drops, stale data in the portal or failed setup. Before you start, a WiFi analyser app on your phone, held at the inverter, gives a rough idea.
Adding a WiFi extender
→Place it roughly midway between the router and the inverter, not next to either.
→Give it a different network name from the main router (for example add _EXT) and connect the dongle to that name.
→Make sure it broadcasts 2.4GHz with WPA2, not WPA3 only.
→For inverters in detached garages, a powerline (HomePlug) adapter with a WiFi access point at the inverter end is the most reliable long-term fix. Results depend on the wiring, so check the signal at the inverter once it is in.
→If the signal still won't reach, we can fit a WiFi extender on site: our WiFi setup visit is from £195, and the extender is an extra £75.
On a mesh system? See mesh WiFi.
Ports
Ports
Which ports GivEnergy needs: outbound TCP 7654
Once the dongle is on your WiFi, it connects out to the GivEnergy cloud. Nothing needs forwarding into your home, and most home broadband allows this already. Parental controls, custom firewall rules, business or managed routers and some security add-ons can block it.
| Port | Direction | Used by | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| TCP 7654 | Outbound, to the internet | Inverter, All in One and Gateway dongles (plug-in and built-in WiFi) | The dongle's link to the GivEnergy cloud. GivEnergy says it must be open. |
| TCP 7655 | Outbound, to the internet | GivEnergy EV charger only | GivEnergy's charger guide says to check 7654 and 7655, as the charger uses only one. Not needed for an inverter. See the EV charger guide. |
| TCP 8899 | Inside your home network only | Local tools that read the inverter over your network (Modbus TCP) | Nothing to open on the router. The dongle copes best with one local client at a time, so run one tool at once. See local monitoring. |
No port forwarding. Nothing comes in from the internet, so do not forward ports to the dongle. If the dongle has an IP address on your router but the portal stays offline, add an outbound allow rule for TCP 7654 and see the app or portal offline guide.
Still not connecting
Troubleshooting
Still not connecting: work through this list
If you have followed the steps and the dongle still won't connect or stay connected, check these in order.
1
Test it on your phone's hotspot
Set up a hotspot on your phone (2.4GHz, WPA2, a simple name and password) and connect the dongle to it. If it connects to the phone but not to your home WiFi, the problem is your router's settings, not the dongle.
2
Check 2.4GHz reaches the inverter
Stand at the inverter with your phone and scan for WiFi. Can you see your router's 2.4GHz network? If not, check the router's 2.4GHz band is switched on and broadcasting. The signal should be at least 70%.
3
Run the router checklist
Security set to WPA2-PSK with AES, not WPA3 only; PMF off on Ubiquiti; no spaces or special characters such as @ or & in the network name or password; a DHCP reservation (fixed IP address) for the dongle; a network cable if one can be run. Details in router requirements.
4
Dongle has an IP address but the portal is offline
The dongle is on your router but can't reach GivEnergy. Check outbound TCP port 7654 is not blocked by parental controls, a firewall rule or a business or managed router, and add an outbound allow rule if it is.
5
Still showing 10.10.100.254 after joining your WiFi
That is the dongle's own hotspot address, so the router didn't give it one. Restart the router, then the dongle.
6
Can't join the dongle's own W hotspot
It is password protected. Try 12345678, then the inverter serial number in capitals. If neither works, reset the dongle.
7
Password rejected
Check capitals and look for a trailing space at the end of the password.
8
Your phone keeps dropping off the dongle's hotspot
Forget your other networks, turn mobile data off and stand close to the inverter.
9
An older dongle that worked until you got a new router
That points at the old dongle chipset: see older dongle on a new router below.
It worked, then went offline? That is more likely the dongle dropping after a router firmware update, an expired DHCP lease or an IP address conflict. See the app or portal offline guide.
Older dongle
Chipset update
Older dongle won't stay connected on a new router
If an older plug-in dongle was stable for years and broke after a router upgrade, the dongle's chipset firmware is the likely cause: older versions struggle with modern routers. Rule out the simpler causes first: signal under 70%, one network name for both bands, port 7654 blocked, or no IP address issued.
What the update is
Chipset version 27 (T27), then bootloader 1.1.4, in that fixed order, done locally from a laptop rather than a phone. A dongle inside the inverter has its DIP switches 2 and 3 set OFF for the update and back ON afterwards; an external dongle skips that step. It needs no internet or portal login and usually clears the saved WiFi details, so you set the WiFi up again afterwards. If Device Management already shows T27, the problem is on the router side.
Getting the files
We hold the T27 and 1.1.4 files. We can do the update on a callout, or supply the right pair if you or your electrician want to do it on site yourselves. Do not hunt for the files yourself: the wrong or altered file can brick the dongle, and GivEnergy Ltd is in administration. The full procedure is on our dongle firmware page, with the update steps.
Factory reset
Reset
How to factory reset the dongle
A factory reset is needed when you can't reach the configuration page (unknown login, or no hotspot visible) and renaming the router hasn't helped.
1
Find the reset button
On the plug-in dongle, remove the small rubber cap at the base: the reset button is a small recessed button beside the USB connector. On built-in WiFi it is a black switch mounted on the circuit board. On a Gen 3, do not reset the built-in WiFi casually. It can take the inverter off the network until it is reconfigured, and there is no manufacturer desk to fall back on: GivEnergy Ltd entered administration on 9 April 2026. Ask your original installer first if they are still trading; if not, book on-site WiFi setup and we will check the configuration on site before anything is reset.
2
Hold it for 15 seconds
With the dongle powered (AC isolator on), press and hold the button for 15 seconds. A pin or straightened paperclip is usually needed. The LED reacts while you hold it.
3
Wait at least 20 minutes
Wait at least 20 minutes, 30 to be safe; nothing visible happens meanwhile. If the hotspot still hasn't reappeared, repeat the 15-second hold. Do not power cycle the dongle during the reset.
After a reset the dongle is back to its defaults: login admin / admin and no WiFi details stored. Start again from step 1 of the setup.
Stop and read this before opening a Gen 3 or Giv-Gateway
Both expose you to dangerous voltages while you do this, and the system must be fully isolated first. On a Gen 3 with no external DC isolators fitted, do not attempt it. On a Giv-Gateway with no external AC breaker before it, do not attempt it. This is an engineer’s job rather than a customer’s. If you are not sure, don’t open it: call us on 07944 877 329, or book on-site WiFi setup.
When to escalate
Escalate
When it is more than a router setting
If you have split the bands, set WPA2 with AES, checked the password and DHCP, and the dongle still won't connect or keeps dropping, the cause is probably beyond the router.
Signs the dongle itself has failed
→Router set up correctly, but the dongle shows no LED or a constant error state
→It connects briefly, then drops again and again, even with a strong signal at the inverter
→It never appears in the router's list of connected devices
→Its own hotspot and the 10.10.100.254 page can no longer be reached, even after a reset
→A chipset update on an older dongle did not help
Signs it is the cloud or firmware
→The dongle shows in the router's device list, but the portal stays offline
→The portal shows the system, but data stopped updating on a particular date
→It started straight after a firmware update
→Outbound port 7654 is confirmed open, but the portal is still offline
On-site WiFi setup
Follow the free step-by-step guide on this page. If it still won't connect, we set it up on site, from £195: we connect it to your WiFi, set up your router, including a separate 2.4 GHz network if it needs one, and check it's reporting. If the signal doesn't reach, a WiFi extender is an extra £75, and we carry them with us. We don't set up or diagnose WiFi remotely or over the phone: it's quicker and more reliable done on site.
Related GivEnergy pages
Local monitoring
Read your system over your home network, without the cloud.
See local monitoring →AECC dongle
Setting up the AECC dongle on the All in One 2 and Gateway 2.
See AECC dongle →Dongle firmware
The older dongle's T27 chipset and bootloader update, done locally.
See dongle firmware →App or portal offline
WiFi connected but no data: the phone app, the dongle, the router, the cloud or Premium.
See app or portal offline →GivEnergy WiFi dongle and router questions
The flash rate is the diagnosis. A slow flash means the dongle is not connected to your WiFi. A fast flash means it is trying to join. Solid blue means it is connected and reporting to GivEnergy, which is the only state you want. A fast flash is normal for the first minute or two after power-up. A slow flash that never changes usually means the dongle is not screwed in properly or not powered. A fast flash that never goes solid points at the WiFi password, the signal or outbound port 7654. See what each light means.
Plug-in dongles and built-in WiFi: join the dongle's hotspot, browse to 10.10.100.254 and log in with admin / admin. If that fails, your installer may have changed it: try the inverter serial number as the password, then a factory reset. The AECC dongle on the All in One 2 and Gateway 2 has its own login: see our AECC dongle guide.
The hotspot is the WiFi network named with the dongle serial number: a W followed by letters and numbers, such as WG2049G011. Try 12345678 first. If that is refused, try the inverter serial number in capital letters. If neither works, the installer has changed it and the dongle needs a factory reset.
No. GivEnergy dongles, plug-in and built-in, connect on 2.4GHz only. The fix is to give the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands separate names on your router and point the dongle at the 2.4GHz one. Do not switch 5GHz off, because that slows everything else in the house. Some hubs cannot split the bands, such as the BT Smart Hub 2: see router settings for each provider for what to do instead.
Because GivEnergy's plug-in dongles and built-in WiFi only support 2.4GHz, like many smart-home devices. They cannot see a 5GHz network at all. 2.4GHz also reaches further through walls than 5GHz, which helps when the inverter is in a garage, a loft or on an outside wall. Your router needs a 2.4GHz network the dongle can join, secured with WPA2 and AES. See what your router needs.
One name for both bands usually means band steering is on. Log in to your router (the address and admin password are usually on its label) and look for a setting called Separate bands, Sync with 2.4GHz, Smart Wi-Fi, Smart Connect, Band steering, Band Management or Band Optimisation. Turn it off and give the 2.4GHz and 5GHz networks different names. Some hubs cannot split the bands, including the BT Smart Hub 2 and the Plusnet Hub Two. The BT Smart Hub 3 offers a separate 2.4GHz network called Compatible Wi-Fi instead. Otherwise add a 2.4GHz access point or extender with its own name. Our provider-by-provider guide covers BT, EE, Sky, Virgin Media, Plusnet and TalkTalk.
WPA2-PSK (also called WPA2-Personal) with AES encryption, which is what GivEnergy asks for. WPA3 will not work, and a mixed WPA2/WPA3 mode may not work either, so set the 2.4GHz network to WPA2 only. Avoid TKIP. On Ubiquiti equipment, GivEnergy says to switch off PMF (Protected Management Frames). Secure the dongle's own hotspot with WPA2-PSK and a password too, as in step 6 of the setup.
Only one, and only outbound: TCP port 7654, which inverter, All in One and Gateway dongles use to reach the GivEnergy cloud. Nothing needs forwarding into your home. Most home broadband leaves it open, but parental controls, a custom firewall or a business router can block it. A GivEnergy EV charger is different: GivEnergy's charger guide says to check both 7654 and 7655, as the charger uses only one. Local tools that read the inverter over your home network use port 8899 on the dongle, and nothing needs opening on the router for that. See the ports table.
It can, but mesh is one of the commonest causes of drop-outs. Most mesh systems (BT Whole Home, Google Nest WiFi, Eero, TP-Link Deco and others) use one network name and steer devices towards 5GHz, so the dongle is refused or dropped. If your mesh app can create a separate 2.4GHz network for smart devices, use that. The most reliable fix is a separate 2.4GHz access point near the inverter, wired to a mesh unit or the router, with its own network name. GivEnergy also notes that mesh systems and extenders can stop the app's local mode finding the inverter. See mesh WiFi.
Quickest fix: set the new router's WiFi name and password to match the old one exactly, and the dongle reconnects by itself within minutes. If you can't, wait for the dongle's hotspot to reappear (a full restart in the correct order speeds this up: Hybrid or All-in-One steps), then follow the setup steps with your new details. Full setup takes about 10 minutes.
Aim for 70% RSSI or better: that is our standard and GivEnergy's recommendation. GivEnergy's router checklist treats anything under 60% as too weak. Between 60 and 70% may work with occasional drop-outs, and below 60% expect drops, stale data or setup failure. To check, connect to the dongle's hotspot, go to 10.10.100.254 → STA Interface Setting → Search: the site survey shows each network with its RSSI. If it is low, a 2.4GHz extender placed midway between router and inverter, with its own network name, is usually the fix.
After the bands are split, the usual cause is signal. Check the RSSI at the dongle is 70% or better. If it is lower, add a 2.4GHz extender or access point with its own network name, or use a network cable if your inverter has a port. Then check three router settings: a DHCP reservation (fixed address) for the dongle, no power-saving feature that drops idle devices, and outbound TCP port 7654 allowed. If an older plug-in dongle only started dropping after a new router arrived, see older dongle on a new router.
Your phone is jumping back to a remembered network or using mobile data. Forget your other WiFi networks, turn mobile data off, and stand close to the inverter, because the hotspot has a short range. Only one device can be connected to it at a time, so disconnect anything else first.
A solid LED means the dongle is on your home WiFi, so the local side is fine. Reaching the GivEnergy cloud is a separate step: the dongle connects outbound on TCP port 7654. The usual causes are that port being blocked by the router, parental controls or a firewall, a GivEnergy cloud outage (check givenergy.cloud), or firmware. The app and cloud are run by GivEnergy Software Ltd, which is still trading. It is a separate company from GivEnergy Ltd, which is in administration. Our app or portal offline guide covers every cause.
If you can run a cable, yes: it removes signal, router-update and interference problems. The plug-in dongle has no cable port, so this applies to inverters with built-in WiFi. WiFi is reliable once you are on 2.4GHz with WPA2 and a decent signal. On a LAN connection, still set WPA2-PSK and a password on the inverter's own WiFi, because a cable does not switch it off.
Follow the free step-by-step guide on this page. If it still won't connect, we set it up on site, from £195: we connect it to your WiFi, set up your router, including a separate 2.4 GHz network if it needs one, and check it's reporting. If the signal doesn't reach, a WiFi extender is an extra £75, and we carry them with us. A chipset firmware update on an older dongle, or a failed dongle that needs replacing on site, is quoted separately first; there is no replacement route through GivEnergy Ltd now, so check our warranty page before paying.
If you follow the steps on this page, setup takes about 10 minutes, and the system shows online 10 to 15 minutes later. If it still won't connect, we can set it up on site, from £195. We don't set up or diagnose WiFi remotely or over the phone: it's quicker and more reliable done on site.
Still not connecting?
Still not connecting?
Tell us the inverter serial number, your router and what the dongle light is doing. If the dongle needs reconnecting to your WiFi, we can set it up on site, from £195: we connect it to your WiFi, set up your router, including a separate 2.4 GHz network if it needs one, and check it's reporting. We don't set up or diagnose WiFi remotely or over the phone: it's quicker and more reliable done on site.
- Not affiliated with GivEnergy Ltd
- On-site WiFi setup, from £195
- Router set-up on site, including a separate 2.4 GHz network
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