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How to shut down your solar system safely step-by-step for maintenance, emergencies and roof work

Whether you need to isolate your system for an electrician, prepare for roof work, or respond to a fault — there is a correct shutdown sequence. Getting it wrong risks damaging your inverter or leaving live DC circuits exposed. This guide covers the full procedure for every major UK brand.
  • Covers all major UK brands
  • Includes battery shutdown
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At a glance

The shutdown order: battery first, battery DC breaker last

  1. 1 Shut the battery down at its power button (LEDs out)
  2. 2 Turn off the AC isolator
  3. 3 Turn off the DC (PV) isolator
  4. 4 Turn off the solar circuit breaker at the consumer unit
  5. 5 Turn off the battery DC breaker (MCB) last
  6. 6 Wait at least 2 minutes (5 is safer)

GivEnergy owners: the DC isolator in step 3 is the one on the bottom of your inverter (on Gen 2 and Gen 3 it is the switch GivEnergy's own guide calls the toggle switch), and AC-coupled inverters have none, so skip step 3. Where your battery DC MCB is, and the full order: the GivEnergy restart page.

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Roy Morgan · Jul 2026 Google

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Si Whaley · Aug 2026 Google

Wow!!! I have a Givenergy system. The battery stopped charging and depleted fully. Obviously Givenergy went into administration, so I was working with the reseller / installer to get it fixed. They told me they couldn't resolve it and the best they could do was offer me a replAcement at cost, so basically having to buy a new system. I happened to come across STS when searching for how to fix it myself. Ronald has been a god send, within 2 days all is working perfectly and set up correctly. When it comes to experts. He truly is the expert. If you have issues with your Givenergy system and don't know where to go for good help, give him call. 07944 877329. Thanks Ronald, regards Neil W

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When You Need To

When you need to shut down your solar system

Most solar systems run continuously without any need for manual shutdown. There are only a handful of situations where you need to isolate the system, and the correct approach depends on which one applies to you.

Planned maintenance

An electrician is working on your consumer unit, replacing a battery module, servicing the inverter, or performing an annual health check. Standard shutdown procedure — no urgency.

Roof work

Roofers need to work near the panels — re-tiling, repairing flashing, scaffold erection, or chimney work. The system should be shut down and the roofers informed that DC cables remain live.

Persistent fault

Your inverter is showing a fault code that does not clear after a soft reset, or the system is behaving erratically. Shutting down prevents further damage while you wait for an engineer.

Emergency

You smell burning, see smoke, hear arcing, or notice water near electrical components. Shut down immediately using the emergency procedure below and call your installer or an emergency electrician.

You do NOT need to shut down for: power cuts (the inverter disconnects automatically via G98/G99 anti-islanding), storms (modern panels are rated to 130mph winds when correctly installed), overnight (the system enters standby naturally), or meter readings (the solar supply is on a separate circuit).
Standard Procedure

How to shut down a solar panel system — step by step

This is the standard shutdown sequence for all UK residential solar systems. The order matters: battery off first at its power button, then AC, then DC, and the battery DC breaker last. This applies to GivEnergy, SolarEdge, Growatt, Sunsynk, Solis, Huawei, Fox ESS, Fronius, and all other grid-tied and hybrid inverters.

Key rule: The battery goes off first at its power button, and the battery DC breaker comes off last. In between, AC before DC. That prevents the voltage spikes that can occur if the inverter loses its DC supply while still connected to the grid, and it means the battery breaker is only opened once power has stopped flowing through it. On restart the order is AC on, then PV, then the battery DC breaker, then the battery power button.
1
Shut the battery down at its power button

If a battery is fitted, it goes off first: before the AC isolator and before the DC isolator. That is the same on every brand. If your battery app offers a soft shutdown, use it first so the battery management system can settle into standby.

Then press or hold the power button on the battery until it powers down. Where several modules are stacked, shut each module down. If your system has no battery, start at step 2.

Leave the battery DC breaker alone for now. The power button is not the breaker. The battery DC breaker or isolation switch is opened last, at step 5, once power has stopped flowing through it.
2
Turn off the AC isolator

The AC isolator is usually a red rotary switch mounted on the wall next to or directly below the inverter. Some installations have it inside the consumer unit area instead. Turn the switch to the OFF position.

The inverter display will go dark or show a "no grid" or "waiting" message within a few seconds. On some models a brief alarm beep may sound. That is normal and indicates the inverter has detected grid disconnection.

3
Turn off the DC (PV) isolator

The DC isolator disconnects the solar panels from the inverter. Its location varies by installation: on string inverters it is typically a rotary switch on the underside or side of the inverter itself. On SolarEdge systems, the DC isolator is on the inverter with a yellow safety label. Some installations have an additional DC isolator near the panels on the roof.

Turn the DC isolator to the OFF position. The inverter is now disconnected from both the grid and the panels.

Important: The panels themselves still produce voltage in daylight. The DC isolator only disconnects them from the inverter — the DC cabling between panels remains energised. Do not touch DC cables, MC4 connectors, or panel junction boxes.
4
Turn off the solar circuit at the consumer unit

Open your consumer unit (fuse board) and switch off the MCB or RCBO that feeds the solar circuit. This is typically a dedicated breaker labelled "Solar", "PV", or "Inverter". It provides a further point of isolation and is required if anyone will be working on the AC wiring between the consumer unit and inverter.

If you are unsure which breaker is for the solar circuit, check the circuit chart on the inside of the consumer unit door. If there is no label, do not guess — contact your installer or an electrician.

5
Turn off the battery DC breaker last

Only now, with the battery already powered down and both isolators open, turn off the battery DC breaker or isolation switch. Opening it last means it is opened with no current flowing through it. Where several modules are stacked, open each one.

If the breaker will not stay off, or it feels warm, stop and call an engineer rather than forcing it.

6
Verify the system is fully shut down

Confirm the inverter display is completely off, with no LEDs and no screen illumination. Check the monitoring app: it should show the system as offline with zero generation. If the inverter still shows any activity, recheck that both the AC and DC isolators are in the OFF position.

Wait at least 30 seconds after the final isolator is switched off before anyone touches the inverter or its connections. Internal capacitors need time to discharge.

Battery Systems

Additional steps for battery storage systems

If your system includes a battery (GivEnergy, Pylontech, Dyness, BYD, Sofar, or any other), the battery bookends the whole sequence. It is a separate energy source from the panels: it goes off first at its power button, and its DC breaker is the very last thing you open. The order below is the same on every brand.

1
Soft-shutdown in the app first, if your battery offers one

Some battery systems support a soft shutdown from the monitoring app, typically by disabling charge and discharge before anything physical is touched. Doing this first lets the BMS (battery management system) complete any balancing and settle into a safe standby state.

2
Turn the battery off at its power button

Press or hold the power button on the battery until it powers down. This happens before the AC isolator and before the DC isolator, on every brand. Where several modules are stacked, shut each one down and wait for its LEDs to go out.

3
Now isolate the inverter

With the battery down, work through steps 2 to 4 of the standard procedure above: AC isolator off, then DC isolator off, then the solar circuit breaker at the consumer unit.

4
Open the battery DC breaker last

Locate the battery DC breaker or isolation switch. On wall-mounted units there is typically a single DC breaker between the battery and the inverter. On rack systems each module has its own breaker, and on some batteries the switch is on the module itself.

Turn it to OFF now, and not earlier. By this point the battery is already down and both isolators are open, so the breaker is opened with no current flowing through it. If you have multiple modules stacked together, isolate each one individually.

5
Wait before working near the battery

After the DC breaker is open, wait at least 2 minutes before working near or on battery components. Battery capacitors and the BMS controller take longer to fully discharge than the inverter. Some manufacturers (Pylontech, BYD) recommend a 5-minute wait. Check the battery LED indicators — they should be off or showing a standby pattern.

Never open a battery enclosure. Even after isolation, battery cells retain charge and can deliver dangerous current. Only a qualified engineer should open, disconnect, or service battery modules. If you suspect a battery fault (swelling, unusual heat, chemical smell), isolate the system, ventilate the room, and call an engineer or the fire service immediately.
Emergency

Emergency shutdown procedure

If you smell burning, see smoke or sparking, hear arcing or crackling, or notice water near the inverter or battery — use the emergency procedure. The priority is speed: isolate everything as quickly as possible, then get clear.

1
Turn off the AC and DC isolators in whichever order you can reach them fastest

In an emergency, speed takes priority over the normal battery-first sequence. Switch off whichever isolator you can reach first, then the other. If there is active fire or arcing at the inverter and you cannot safely reach the isolators, go to step 2.

2
Turn off the main switch at the consumer unit

If you cannot safely reach the inverter isolators, go to your consumer unit and switch off the main switch (the large switch at the top). This cuts all power to the property including the solar circuit. It does not disconnect the DC side from the panels, but it removes the AC supply.

3
Move everyone away from the area

If there is fire, smoke, or a chemical smell from a battery, evacuate the room and ventilate by opening windows from the outside if possible. Lithium battery fires produce toxic fumes. Do not attempt to extinguish a lithium battery fire with water.

4
Call for help

For fire or smoke: call 999 and inform them the property has a solar panel system and/or lithium battery storage. For electrical faults without fire: call your installer, an emergency electrician, or STS emergency repair. Do not re-enter the area or attempt to restart the system until it has been inspected by a qualified person.

Safety

What NOT to do during a solar shutdown

These are the most common mistakes homeowners make when shutting down or working around their solar system. Each one creates a genuine safety risk.

Do not disconnect MC4 connectors under load

MC4 connectors (the click-together plugs on the DC cables between panels) are not designed to be disconnected while the panels are producing power. Pulling them apart under load causes arcing, which can burn the connector and create a fire risk. MC4 disconnection should only be done by a qualified person, ideally at night or with panels covered.

Do not assume panels are safe because the inverter is off

Turning off the inverter stops generation but does not de-energise the panels or DC cabling. A typical domestic string produces 300–600V DC in daylight. The DC isolator disconnects the panels from the inverter, but the cable from the roof to the isolator remains live. Treat all DC wiring as energised until a qualified person has tested and confirmed otherwise.

Do not open the inverter or battery casing

Even after full isolation, internal capacitors retain charge for several minutes. Inverter and battery enclosures contain high-voltage DC busbars and terminals. Opening them voids your warranty and exposes you to lethal voltages. Only a qualified engineer should open any equipment enclosure.

Do not use water on a lithium battery fire

Lithium-ion and LiFePO₄ battery fires produce toxic hydrogen fluoride gas and cannot be reliably extinguished with water. If you see smoke, swelling, or smell chemicals from a battery, isolate the system, evacuate, ventilate, and call 999. The fire service has specific protocols for lithium battery incidents.

Restarting

How to restart your solar system after shutdown

The restart sequence runs the shutdown in reverse. The AC side comes back first, then the panels, and the battery comes on last: consumer unit breaker, AC isolator, DC isolator, battery DC breaker, then the battery power button.

1
Turn on the solar circuit at the consumer unit

Switch the MCB or RCBO for the solar circuit back to the ON position. This restores the AC feed to the inverter.

2
Turn on the AC isolator

Switch the AC isolator to the ON position. The inverter powers up and begins its startup sequence, which takes between 30 seconds and 5 minutes depending on the brand. During this time it measures grid voltage and frequency for a mandatory monitoring period (typically 60 seconds) before it will begin exporting.

3
Turn on the DC (PV) isolator

Switch the DC isolator back to the ON position. The inverter picks up the panel voltage and, once its grid monitoring period is complete, begins generating. A brief "waiting" or "initialising" message on the display is normal.

4
Turn on the battery DC breaker

Close the battery DC breaker or isolation switch. Where several modules are stacked, do each one. Nothing should happen yet, because the battery itself is still off.

5
Turn the battery on at its power button

The battery is the last thing on, exactly as it was the first thing off. Press or hold the power button on each module and wait for the BMS to initialise: the LED indicators should change from off to a normal status pattern. Allow 30 to 60 seconds for the startup checks to complete.

6
Verify normal operation

Wait 5 minutes, then check: the inverter display shows normal generation figures, the monitoring app shows the system as online, and battery state-of-charge is reading correctly. If the system was off for more than a few hours, check your charge schedule and export limit settings — some inverters reset these after a prolonged power loss.

If the inverter does not start, shows a persistent fault code, or generation remains at zero, see inverter not turning on or system not producing for diagnosis steps.

After any extended shutdown: Log into your monitoring portal and verify that your charge schedule, export limit, and EPS settings are unchanged. Some inverters treat a prolonged disconnection as a factory reset trigger, particularly after firmware updates. See the firmware update risks guide for the full post-restart checklist.
Brand Notes

Brand-specific shutdown notes

The procedure above applies to all brands, but some inverters have quirks worth knowing about.

GivEnergy hybrid inverters have a single DC isolator on the underside of the unit; the AC-coupled inverter has none. Gen 2 and Gen 3 batteries each have a built-in DC MCB under the plastic cover; Gen 1 batteries have none of their own and use a separate DC MCB installed between the inverter and the batteries, usually in its own enclosure, with one serving all the Gen 1 batteries. A Gen 1 battery mixed with Gen 2 or Gen 3 can mean an extra DC MCB outside the batteries. After restart, check MyGivEnergy for any "system restart" events in the event log — these confirm the shutdown and restart were detected cleanly. If the inverter shows "waiting" for more than 5 minutes after restart, power-cycle the WiFi dongle. The GivEnergy order step by step is in our GivEnergy restart guide. The physical toggle switch that GivEnergy's own guide lists for Gen 2 and Gen 3 inverters is that same DC isolator on the bottom, not a second switch.

SolarEdge systems have a built-in safety feature: when the DC isolator is turned off, the optimisers reduce panel voltage to a safe level (1V per panel). This makes SolarEdge systems safer for roof work than conventional string inverters. The DC isolator is on the inverter itself, marked with a yellow label. After restart, optimisers take 2–5 minutes to pair and begin reporting — expect a brief delay before generation figures appear in the mySolarEdge portal.

Growatt SPH and MIN series inverters have the DC isolator on the bottom of the unit. After shutdown, the display may flash briefly as residual capacitor charge dissipates — this is normal. On restart, if ShinePhone shows the plant as offline, the ShineLink/WiFi-X dongle may need a manual restart (unplug and replug the USB dongle).

Sunsynk hybrid inverters have a DC isolator on the right-hand side of the unit. The inverter stores settings in non-volatile memory, so charge schedules and system mode survive a shutdown. After restart, Sunsynk typically reconnects to SunsynkConnect within 2–3 minutes. Check the "System Mode" setting (Self Use, Grid Tie, etc.) has not changed.

Our order for a Fox ESS system is the battery's power button first, then the AC isolator, then the inverter's DC isolator, and the battery's DC MCB last if it has one, so the MCB is never switched under load. To turn it back on, go in reverse: battery DC MCB, DC isolator, AC isolator, then the battery's power button.

Huawei SUN2000 inverters have both AC and DC isolators built into the unit. LUNA2000 battery modules have individual power switches on each module — turn them off from top to bottom, and on from bottom to top. After a prolonged shutdown (24+ hours), the FusionSolar app may require you to re-enter the plant and manually refresh the device list.

Technical Detail

Why the shutdown order matters: battery first, then AC before DC

Two rules are doing the work here. The battery goes off before anything else and its DC breaker comes off last. Between the two isolators, AC comes before DC, because of how grid-tied inverters manage power flow.

Battery first is house policy across every brand we cover, not a quirk of one manufacturer. A battery is an independent energy source: while it is awake it can keep feeding the inverter after both isolators are open. Powering it down at its button before you touch anything else means you remove one live source at a time. Its DC breaker comes off last. The battery DC breaker (MCB) is a protection device, not an on/off switch: opening it while current is flowing is hard on the electronic switches (MOSFETs) inside the battery and inverter. So it only comes off once the battery is powered down and nothing is flowing through it, never while it is carrying load.

A grid-tied solar inverter continuously converts DC power from the panels into AC power synchronised with the grid. The inverter's control loop adjusts its output to match the grid's voltage and frequency in real time. If you remove the DC supply first (panels disconnected) while the AC side is still grid-connected, the inverter briefly loses its power source but remains electrically connected to the grid. This can cause a transient voltage condition as the inverter's protection circuits react — on some models, this results in a hard fault that requires a manual reset.

Disconnecting AC first is cleaner: the inverter detects grid loss, its anti-islanding protection activates within about half a second (the G98/G99 limit is 0.5 s), and it enters a controlled standby state. You then disconnect DC with the inverter already in standby — no transient, no fault, no drama.

Restart runs the other way round. Bring the AC side back first, consumer unit breaker then AC isolator, so the inverter can perform its mandatory grid monitoring period (typically 60 seconds of voltage and frequency measurement). Then the PV isolator, then the battery DC breaker, and the battery power button last of all. The battery is the last thing on, exactly as it was the first thing off.

The exception: In a genuine emergency (fire, smoke, arcing), speed matters more than sequence. Switch off whatever isolator you can reach first. The risk of a transient fault on the inverter is trivial compared to the risk of delay. The inverter can be reset or replaced — the priority is removing power as fast as possible.
FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Battery off at its power button first (wait for the LEDs to go out), then the AC isolator, then the DC (PV) isolator, then the solar breaker at the consumer unit, and the battery DC breaker (MCB) last of all. Then wait at least 2 minutes (5 is safer) before anyone works on the system.
If you have a battery, the battery comes before both isolators. Shut the battery down at its power button first, then AC, then DC, and open the battery DC breaker last. That applies to every brand we cover. Between the two isolators it is AC first: disconnecting AC lets the inverter's anti-islanding protection activate cleanly and enter standby before you remove the DC supply. On restart the order is AC on, then the PV isolator, then the battery DC breaker, then the battery power button.
Yes. Solar panels produce DC voltage whenever light hits them — even on overcast days. A typical domestic string produces 300–600V DC. Shutting down the inverter and turning off the DC isolator disconnects the panels from the inverter, but the panels themselves and the DC cabling between them still carry voltage. Only a qualified electrician should work on DC solar wiring.
You can safely operate all isolator switches yourself — they are designed for homeowner use, the same as turning off a light switch. However, if the shutdown involves disconnecting any wiring, opening the inverter or battery casing, or working on DC cables, a qualified electrician is required. DC solar circuits carry dangerous voltages during daylight and are covered by the Electricity at Work Regulations 1989.
No. All monitoring data is stored on the manufacturer's cloud server, not on the inverter. You will see a gap in your monitoring graphs for the period the system was off, but historical data and account settings are unaffected. Some inverters buffer data locally and upload it on reconnection, partially filling the gap.
No. In a power cut, the inverter disconnects automatically within about half a second via anti-islanding protection (a legal safety requirement under ESQCR 2002 reg 22, with the timing set by the G98/G99 connection standards). During storms, panels rated to the required wind loading standard are designed to withstand extreme weather. The only reason to shut down before a storm would be if you know the panels or mounting are already damaged. If your system has EPS backup, shutting down would disable your backup power — the opposite of what you want in an outage.
First, verify the restart order: consumer unit breaker on, then the AC isolator, then the DC or PV isolator, then the battery DC breaker, and the battery power button last. If the inverter display lights up but shows a fault code, note the code and check the fault codes guide. If the display remains completely dark, check the consumer unit breaker hasn't tripped (RCBOs can trip during the restart surge). If the inverter starts but shows zero generation, check that the DC isolator is fully in the ON position — some rotary isolators need a firm twist. For persistent issues, see inverter not turning on.
No — a standard shutdown using the isolator switches is a homeowner job, free to do yourself, the same as flicking a light switch. You only need an engineer if wiring has to be disconnected, the system won't restart, or it's an emergency. An on-site isolation or maintenance visit is from £295; if there's an underlying fault, the remote diagnostic to pin it down is free and you only pay £125 if we fix it remotely.
Same day in most cases for urgent isolation or a system that won't restart after a shutdown — we confirm the slot when you enquire. For planned maintenance around an electrician or roof work, we book the next convenient day. If it's an emergency (smoke, arcing, a battery fault), isolate using the steps above and call 999 first.
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If you are unsure about any part of the shutdown procedure, need DC wiring disconnected, or your system won't restart after maintenance — an engineer can attend same day in most cases. Maintenance service from £295.

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